Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Finally Got To Surf! - Surfing

I finally got a chance to go surfing yesterday!  My co-worker (the experienced surfer) and I went to a local surf break that is only a block from our job.  I was a little nervous to go out because I have only attempted to surf a few times in my life and it was not consistent so I was basically starting over.

I took my 7’6’’ board out that has a lot of “rocker” and sufficient girth in the middle to float me properly.  Even though I took my larger board out I still felt like I was fighting the board the entire time.  I had a hard time locating what surfers call the “sweet spot” on the board.  This means the location on the board where you are not too far back or too far forward.  My pseudo instructor told me that you should be positioned so that the nose of the board is just sticking out of the water.  If you are too far back it will slow you down while you are trying to paddle out.  If you are too far forward you will take a nose dive over the board when you try to catch a wave, this is called “pearling”.

Overall I spent about an hour and a half in the water and caught 1 wave that was all white water.  I rode that on my chest and did not make any attempt to stand up yet.  I am in this for the long haul and see no reason to rush it and potentially hurt myself.  I hope this info helps!


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