Man it feels like it’s been ages since the last time I surfed… I guess it’s only been about a week but that just seems like way too long. The conditions in SoCal have not been great for beginners the past week and it has really had me bummed. There was an awesome swell last week which is great, if you’re good and know what to do with the large waves but not great if you are still trying to stand up in the white wash like a noob. Today I forgot about the last week in a second because the waves were awesome!
I paddled out to the point break again and sat there for a bit before I decided to get out of there because I did not want to get in anybody’s way once the larger sets started to roll in. After I left the prime real estate I headed for the inner break with the white wash. I actually had a blast in the inner break and managed to catch some white water, it’s the little things I guess. I am in this for the long haul so I try not to get discouraged if I am not progressing very fast. As long as I keep getting out there that's all I care about right now.
Something interesting I wanted to mention about the spot I surf at work is that during high tide the waves crash close to the cliffs and then bounce back toward the ocean. This is usually kind of dangerous if you are not careful. While I was riding my last wave in toward the beach to end my session today, another wave crashed on the wall and rebounded straight back at me. I hit the waves heading out and it launched me into the air haha. It must of looked hilarious because I heard a woman on the beach scream “YEAH!! You caught air!!!”. That was definitely a good way to end the session.
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