So the conditions were far less than ideal today for my surf session. The waves were about 2-3 feet, completely blown out, and choppy. My friend and I took one look at the conditions and said “Oh well, let’s do it”. It took a while to paddle out today because of the chop. You really couldn’t judge the wave frequency or direction because they seemed to be coming at you from every direction with no consistency.
I caught a wave at the point break instead of the inner break where the white water is, which was great because I have not done that before. The wave came out of nowhere so I got a late start at it. This didn’t matter because I was on the longboard so after hitting the turbo button I was being pushed along with no effort. This wave felt different than the white water I usually catch in the inner break. It was moving much faster to start. Also, after catching I finally felt the sensation of sliding down the wave face. Unfortunately, I did not stand up on this wave. I am still working that part out but it felt amazing to catch a wave like that today.
I am still using my friend’s 9’0’’ board. At first I did not want to use a longboard AT ALL. I even went out and bought a 6’6’’ fish board touting that I will be one of the few that starts on a shortboard, that lasted exactly one session. I spent the entire time fighting the board and it took me what seems like an eternity to paddle out. After that session on the shortboard I lost my desire to try and be a badass and fell in line with all the other beginners.
I like the longer board for a few reasons. The first being how stable it is when I am paddling around on it. The short board would sway back and forth with every little movement I made and I could not seem to find a spot on it that would make it feel stable while paddling. The second was how easy it was to catch a wave on it. The third was how easy it was to sit on when you are waiting for a set to come in. There are a few other reasons but I will leave it at that for now in the spirit of keeping this blog short. Thanks for reading!
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