It looks like my search for a good board still continues. I have been going back and forth between a 9’0’’ Costco longboard my buddy at work bought and an 8’0’’ funboard I bought from a local surf shop a few years ago. I am really starting to learn that the conditions vary from day to day and it’s good to have as many options in your “quiver” as possible. As of late, I have really wanted to get a longer board, one that accelerates very quickly and is wide enough that it floats me and has a stable feel to it when standing. I went out surfing yesterday at what is considered a beginner spot and found that my board is just a tad too short for the conditions there, for the most part. Of course, when I say that you have to take into account my skill level… Which is very low at the moment.
There was a group of surfers, most of them women that were on very long boards and were just gliding across the water while paddling. These surfers were able to get into position on the peak of the waves much quicker than I was so I was left with very few waves to try and catch. They were at a much higher level than me so I found it a bit intimidating to try and challenge any of them for a wave because I was not sure if I would be able to follow through and ride the wave out after I caught it. Also, because their boards were longer they were able to sit out farther and catch the wave sooner than me which they did, often. I surf three locations, each of these locations are bit different from each other. The spot by my house is primarily a longboard spot while the 2 spots at my work can be surfed with a longboard or a shortboard depending on the conditions.
That being said, I decided not to sell my 6’6’’ fish just yet and I drove up to work to leave it there just so I had it available to use if I wanted to when the conditions were right. I am now left needing to get myself a 9’ + longboard for home. My buddy has an awesome 9’3’’ Takayama nose riding board that just glides across the water and accelerates very quickly. I rode it last week for a short time and was very impressed with how easy it is to catch a wave on it. I actually gave up on paddling for a wave once and STILL caught the wave. The search for my go to board still continues.
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